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Birkenstocks have always been a lesbian style signal, and here’s why

Robyn Exton

,

Oct 30, 2024

Birkenstocks have always been a lesbian style signal, and here’s why
  • At HER, we love talking fashion—especially when it comes to iconic queer style signals like Birkenstocks. While some of these signals might be associated with lesbian culture, we don’t want to reinforce stereotypes, but rather give more context for understanding cultural clues. Historically, LGBTQ+ people have used non-verbal signals like fashion because of the stigma and discrimination we’ve faced. 

    For better or for worse, we’ve needed to adapt for our own safety – on the bright side, this has allowed us to explore our creativity and create community around certain accessories and styles, from carabiners to undercuts. Among these, few accessories have gained the same iconic status in the lesbian community as Birkenstocks. 

    So, where do Birkenstocks fit into lesbian style history? Let’s dive in and find out!

    Closeup of someone’s legs, wearing black Birkenstock sandals with white polka-dot socks, on a yellow background.

    What is lesbian style, anyway?

    Lesbian style often blends different gender presentations, sometimes rejecting mainstream ideas of femininity altogether. On the other hand, femme lesbians, for example, might embrace femininity but without the male gaze, flipping the script completely.This kind of “signaling”—visual rejection of traditional femininity—lets lesbians communicate their identity in a way that feels authentic. Whether it’s subtle cues like the chapstick lesbian style or bolder markers like butch fashion, clothes and accessories have long been part of how lesbians express themselves.

    @nowthisisliving

    and that label makes me feel comfy!!! #wlw

    ♬ original sound – Taco

    Lesbian fashion signals

    Lesbians have used fashion as a form of signaling for decades. Some styles, like the famous butch-femme dichotomy, have played a pivotal role in shaping queer aesthetics. Historically, butch lesbians often favored utilitarian, sturdy clothing like work boots, while femme lesbians embraced more traditionally feminine attire.  (If you want to learn more about butch lesbian history—especially stone butch history—Stone Butch Blues by Leslie Feinberg is a groundbreaking read that every sapphic should know about.)

    All of that being said, we’ve seen lesbians and sapphics wear Birkenstocks with all types of outfits – from the more masculine side of the spectrum, to the feminine. At the end of the day, both styles embraced authenticity over conformity

    The history of Birkenstocks

    Founded in 1774 by Johann Adam Birkenstock, the company originally focused on creating shoes that were designed to contour and support the foot. Sounds utilitarian enough, right? But what started as practical footwear eventually evolved into something much more culturally significant.

    When Birkenstocks entered the U.S. market in the 1970s, thanks to German-American entrepreneur Margot Fraser, they found a natural fit with the rising hippie movement. The anti-establishment and countercultural movement rejected mainstream values like consumerism, capitalism, and rigid social norms. Birkenstocks, with their simple, no-nonsense design, fit perfectly into that ethos. The sandals became a quiet statement of rebellion, associated with people who wanted to live outside of societal expectations. 

    Birkenstock shoes on display in an editorial-style lakeside photoshoot.

    Source: Birkenstock

    Lesbian style and birkenstocks

    If you’re asking yourself, “What do Birkenstocks represent in queer culture?” while reading this, maybe the last section gave you some insight on how the beginnings of lesbian-Birkenstock association started. 

    It makes sense that this pushback against societal norms in the hippie movement connected with the queer community, especially lesbians, who were also challenging mainstream gender roles and restrictive ideas about femininity. Butch lesbian fashion often embraces practical, utilitarian choices—flannel shirts, work boots, and, of course, Birkenstocks—opting for styles that prioritized comfort and authenticity over the performative nature of traditional femininity. 

    These sandals—durable, functional, and unpretentious—also became tied to working-class values, a narrative long intertwined with the queer community. In this way, they became part of a broader cultural language of defiance, signaling a rejection of societal expectations around how women should look and dress.

    This cultural significance has been documented over time. I found references to the connection between lesbians and the iconic shoes as early as 1991. Susie Bright, in a playful recounting of her college days, said:

    “Of course, there’s a strict gay dress code no matter where you cruise. At the height of my college cruising, I was attending Take Back the Night meetings dressed in Mr. Greenjeans overalls, Birkenstocks, and a bowl haircut.” – Susie Bright, 1991

    Another notable example appeared in a 1993 Newsweek cover story, where the scene at a gay and lesbian-rights march in Washington was described as:

    “Bare-breasted teenagers in overalls, ageing baby boomers in Birkenstocks, and bald biker dykes from the Coast… an unabashed display of lesbian visibility.”  – Newsweek, “Lesbians: Coming Out Strong; What Are the Limits of Tolerance?” cover story, 1993

    Fast forward to the 21st century, and these shoes have continued to cement their place in lesbian style culture—even making appearances at weddings. As Kelly L. Reddy-Best noted in her research, “I Kicked Those Babies Off and Put the Typical Lesbian Birkenstocks on,” lesbian brides have embraced the iconic sandal on their special day, blending comfort with personal expression. 

    One bride in this survey shared, “I had to take off my heels during the reception and switch to my Birkenstocks. It just felt more me.”
    Not to mention the slew of TikToks talking about this phenomenon!

    @gaygirlinrome

    Your sign to buy yourself flowers without waiting for anyone #fyp #wlw #lgbt #gay

    ♬ BLUE – Billie Eilish

    While the iconic sandals are not exclusively worn by lesbians, they have a strong association with lesbian style due to their practicality and long-standing connection to countercultural movements. And though the brand may not have started as a ‘lesbian shoe’ brand, over time, they’ve become one of the most recognizable symbols of lesbian fashion.

    Birkenstocks may seem like just a pair of sandals, but their role in lesbian culture is layered with meaning. From their origins as a functional shoe to their current place as a symbol of queer style, this shoe brand has carved out their own niche in the world of lesbian fashion. Whether you wear them for comfort, history, or as a quiet rebellion against norms, Birkenstocks have earned their place as a timeless, authentic expression of queer style.

    Robyn Exton

    ,

    Robyn is the CEO & Founder of HER. Find her on Twitter.

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