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Oct 18, 2024
You’d be hard-pressed to find a sapphic who isn’t familiar with the lesbian undercut—at this point, it’s a staple!
If you’re among the uninitiated (don’t worry, no judgment here), an undercut is a hairstyle where one section of the hair—usually the sides or back—is shaved or cut much shorter than the rest.
But is it exclusively a lesbian hairstyle?
The truth is, people have been rocking undercuts regardless of their sexuality. While the undercut has crossed many cultural boundaries, in queer culture, it’s often seen as a signifier—a style that plays with gender norms and expresses identity.
Depending on its wearer, the sharp, often androgynous hairstyle can challenge traditional ideas of femininity. It lets its wearers claim their own version of beauty and strength. It can be a hidden part of the self if your hair is long enough to cover the undercut, or it can be an outright statement, standing out when you have short hair.
Miranda Manier, former Managing Editor of The Columbia Chronicle, conducted insightful interviews in 2018, gathering stories from lesbians and other queer folks about their relationship with hair.
One line from Manier’s 2018 article, Undercuts, Mullets, and Pixies, Oh My! Queer Hair is Self-Expression, that really stood out was from Jackie Young, a barber: “My hair actually clocked me as queer before I knew I was queer.”
Jackie shared with Manier how nontraditional haircuts have become a way for queer people to recognize each other: “I notice all the time when I’m walking down the street [if] someone has a nontraditional haircut for what their gender presentation is. We do the head nod, like, ‘Hey, I see you.’ It’s a way of being visible within the community.”
As Manier explains in her article, published by UWIRE, “Mainstream cisgender and heterosexual society places certain expectations on hair. Longer hairstyles typically belong to women, and shorter hairstyles typically belong to men. This has been true for centuries, with historical references to the tradition in ancient Greek texts and the Bible.”
It’s no surprise that queer folks often push back against these rigid norms, reclaiming power through haircuts like the undercut.
So, is an undercut a lesbian haircut? Not necessarily. But you can make it so! There’s no right or wrong way to wear your hair when you’re a lesbian—if you’re sapphic and have hair, then voilà, you’ve got a lesbian haircut!
That being said, there’s something unique about how LGBTQ+ folks express themselves. In some circles, everyone’s rocking Birkenstocks and carabiners, while in others, sapphics come in all shapes, sizes, and styles.
Take Susie Bright’s experience in the early 1990s:
“Of course, there’s a strict gay dress code no matter where you cruise. At the height of my college cruising, I was attending Take Back the Night meetings dressed in Mr. Greenjeans overalls, Birkenstocks, and a bowl haircut…”
—Susie Bright, feminist, author, and journalist, in 1991.
So, what does it mean if a woman has an undercut? Sometimes, it’s really not that deep—it’s entirely functional! Like Ariesin from the actuallesbians subreddit, who shared: “I have an undercut, but it’s only my ventilation system and shhhh, nobody knows about it.”
Source: Reddit.com
There are so many ways to play around with an undercut, whether you’re going for something subtle or ready to make a statement. If you’re looking for lesbian undercut hairstyle ideas for 2024, here’s some inspo.
You don’t need a celebrity to tell you a hairstyle is cool, but hey, who says you can’t get inspired? Demi Lovato has rocked a few different undercut styles, showing off their bold and ever-changing vibe. Here’s a glimpse of a style they debuted back in 2020.
Let’s get into some more styles!
One of the most popular versions out there! Keep your hair long on top and shave or buzz one side for that edgy, asymmetrical look. Whether you like it messy and tousled or sleek and styled, a side undercut gives you a ton of styling options.
Source: byrdie.com
When I think of undercuts, this is what comes to mind. The back of your head is shaved, either just a little or a lot, while the hair on top stays long. It’s perfect for those who want something hidden—just let your longer hair cover it when you feel like keeping it low-key, and show it off when you’re ready to turn heads.
The answer to the question: can undercuts be feminine? Totally.
The femme undercut keeps things soft and edgy at the same time. You can keep your hair long and flowing, while the undercut on the side or back gives it that extra pop. It’s a great way to mix those femme and androgynous vibes.
Source: hrctlvrs on Instagram
Can a straight girl have an undercut? Sure! Is the undercut an exclusively lesbian hairstyle? Not at all! It’s all about what makes you feel like you.
Whether you’re rocking it as a personal style choice or as part of your queer identity, the undercut is for anyone who wants to make a bold statement.
Want more inspiration? Check out our list of bisexual haircuts next!
Rocio Sanchez (any pronouns) is a brand strategist and SEO copywriter who dedicates themself to LGBT+ and POC-led business through digital marketing strategies. Born and raised a Dominican New Yorker, and now based in Amsterdam, they have their own digital marketing agency called Marketing by Rocio. They also host a queer fashion podcast called Transition of Style, based partly on their graduate master’s thesis completed in Paris, where they lived for four years.
